Tuna Fish
He
said that we weren't going to chase any tuna, but if we caught some
along the way, that was OK, too. What with recent waterfront
adventures, a week or so absence seemed expedient, and the prospect of
some open ocean fishing beckoned.
Since the boat was
empty of fuel, it was riding high in the water so we motored over to
the fuel dock and got 1,200 gallons of diesel. Also, this fishing boat
didn't have a refrigerator, therefor we loaded three tons of ice into
the hold, which added ballast to help the boat ride better in the
waves. At the ice house, the Cap'n went in and bought the ice, then the
big ice blocks were rolled along a conveyor to a grinder and blasted
through a big hose into the hold. The Cap'n was down in the hold
blasting the ice up one side and down the other; when he came up out of
the hold, I laughed at the sight of him with frozen hair and eyebrows
and blue skin, but he didn't crack a smile, either not seeing the humor
in the situation, or being too frozen to react.
We'd
run into another fishing boat headed up the coast and thought to
partner-up to keep an eye on each other just in case. But a couple of
things happened on the way out of the Bay which changed our plans a
bit. The other boat was leading the way toward the Golden Gate Bridge
when they radioed that they'd lost steering, and while we were
deciding
whether the repair things there or tow them back in, they spotted a
body floating. It had apparently been in the water a few days as it was
bloated. So, they decided to call the Coast Guard to report the body
and get towed in.
Just past the bridge, the sea gets
wavy, and if the tide is surging in, one can be pulled toward the
Potato Patch, a bunch of rocks on the north side. I've sailed through
there with the motors going full and the boat going kind of sideways,
which is called "crabbing," but this time the tide was running and
getting out into the ocean was easy.
We ran up the
coast and the Cap'n said that we might as well put the lines out
because the tuna were swarming about twenty miles up. There were two
long wooden poles either side of the cabin with three lines apiece, and
we tied four more lines off the stern. We were trolling rubber squid
with two hooks, no barbs; when the tuna hit, the trolling speed keeps
them on the hook 'til they're pulled in. On the way to the feeding
frenzy, we caught two tuna; one about 100lbs. and one about 80lbs..
When the tuna hit, we pull them in by hand until they're at the back of
the boat, then we gaff them and yank them on board. The hook looks like
a medium-sized baseball bat with a curved steel spike, we whack them in
the back of the head, pull them up, and put a finger into their gills
to pull their arteries and let them bleed-out. The tuna vibrate for
about thirty seconds, then expire. The normal color of these tuna is
blue/black on top and silver/white on their bellies. At the moment the
tuna expire, they "shoot the rainbows," and the silver/white part
twinkles with iridescent colors for maybe ten or twenty seconds. There
is probably a chemical explanation for this, but I see it as the
life-force visibly leaving the fish. We put the fish in a big wooden
box covered with burlap and hose it down with sea water.
We chugged up the coast about twenty miles from the Golden Gate and
were still within sight of land when we spotted many fishing boats
sailing in circles while guys on the decks were busily pulling in tuna.
The water is shallow there and the tuna run in to feed making it easy
for the fishermen. Tuna also run down the 52� F thermal edge in the
ocean current, and the boat has a thermometer on the hull to follow the
edge to be in closer proximity to the tuna. Also, there's a
"fishfinder," a kind of sonar that can locate schools of fish, but our
trolling method requires that the tuna be surfaced and feeding. There
were so many boats trolling so close to each other that there seemed a
real possibility that collisions would occur, so we elected to run on
up the coast and away from the traffic jam.
We caught
a couple of more strays, and the sea was getting a bit choppy, so we
put out the flopper-stoppers. There were chains that hang from the long
wooden side poles, and the chains have what look like small delta-wing
jet planes with a two-foot wing span and made of aluminum; these planes
"fly" under the water with very little drag and prevent the boat from
rolling side-to-side. We were getting pretty far out to sea by this
time, still headed north but well away from the coastal traffic. We
passed two 350 ton Russian "factory boats" headed south; they stay out
fishing and canning 'til they're full then head back to port. The
Russians have some kind of treaty that they can fish within the 200
mile limit, but not 10 mile limit; I think that's it.
It got dark, and the Cap'n decided to go on four hour watches while we
were running north. The boat was on auto, but I sat in the chair to
watch stuff while the Cap'n was sleeping. The ocean was nice; no chop
and long swells. I flipped the side spotlights on and soon there were
porpoises running alongside feeding on the little fish they could find
under the lights. The porpoises would run up the back of a wave
feeding, then corkscrew out of the water spinning back into the center
of a trough to run up the next wave, kind of playing and eating at the
same time. It was fun to watch them. I drank a glass of dago red wine
and put the tea kettle on for coffee later. I was sitting in the chair
half hypnotized by the motion of the ocean when the boat started to
make a left turn, not as if we'd struck something but sudden enough to
give me a start. I looked out the right side of the boat, and a big
damned shark had bit one of the flopper-stoppers and was trying to run
with it! The flopper-stopper was about two feet wide, so the shark's
head was better than three feet wide, and I'm guessing that it was at
least 50 feet long. That it could pull our 72' boat which had two
6-cylinder diesel engines gave me pause. We had a 20 gauge shotgun with
slugs, so I thought to shoot it and try to get a chain around its tail
to tow it in, but I also thought that if I shot it, it might get pissed
and ram the boat. After the shark figured out that it couldn't eat the
flopper-stopper, it swam off; I was very impressed to have seen such a
large shark, but very glad that it had decided to find a midnight snack
somewhere else.
All the next day, the sea became more
agitated, we were a couple of hundred miles out with a storm on the way
and figured to keep heading north rather than making a run to port.
That day, the waves were 15-20 feet and I was down in the cutty cabin
in the bow reading, "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas," by Hunter
Thompson, a pretty funny book
about his reporting on the SuperBowl
from a hotel room. When the boat was going up a wave, I weighed 50%
more, and when the boat went down a wave, I weighed 50% less, sometimes
even floating up off the bunk. By dark that day, I'd gotten some sleep
and the waves had gotten to 30-35 feet and the wind was blowing.
The game plan for riding-out the storm was to keep the boat generally
headed into the running sea so that waves would not hit the boat
broadside and capsize us. The Cap'n went to sleep and left me sitting
in the chair at the wheel which didn't require much attention as the
boat was doing OK maintaining an into-the-waves direction. I don't get
sea sick, but food preparation was out of the question, so I was
sipping red wine and hot chocolate. The boat would take 7-10 seconds to
ride up a wave and the same down the other side. In the trough of a
wave, all that could be seen was the next one. I'd seen "rogue waves"
before, errant giant waves that don't fit the normal sets, but I wasn't
thinking encountering one as the sea seemed violent enough without
conjuring more mayhem. But like many things that come when unexpected
or at a seemingly inopportune time, as the boat crested a 30' wave,
there before me was a solid wall of water that all but obscured the
sky. There was no changing course, the boat ran down the wave and
squarely into the giant rogue, but instead of riding up the surface, we
went under it! All of a sudden, it was very quiet and the boat ceased
it gyrations, all was calm and peaceful, save for the fact of being
under tons of water. The side lights were still on, but all that I
could see out of the windows was green water and bubbles. I fully
expected the glass to shatter and tons of water to pour in on the Cap'n
and me. The Cap'n was still asleep, oblivious to our peril, and I
thought to wake him so that we might put on out thermal flotation
survival suits, but there wasn't time for that. I looked at the door,
and only a little water was trickling in. Just then, like a cork, we
popped out the other side of the mountain of water and resumed the
roller coaster ride. The next morning, I told the Cap'n that we'd been
completely under water for a while during the night, but he seemed
indifferent to the passed peril, it was water over the bridge, as it
were.
The sea calm and the sky clear and sunny, the
Cap'n got some more bunk time and I went up on the bridge to enjoy some
fresh air. There was a chair and a hydraulic remote tiller up on the
bridge so that I could steer the boat from there if needed. I spotted
two whales and followed them for about twenty miles. They were running
on the surface, and I could see them blowing air and their fluked
tails. I was close enough that I could see the barnacles on them. Then
in the distance about two points off the port bow, I saw many tuna
jumping, running more or less toward the boat. I swung the rudder
toward the school of jumpers inadvertently rolling the Cap'n out of his
bunk, and he came up to the bridge pissed-off. I'm waving and pointing
and yelling, "Jumpers! Jumpers!" So, the Cap'n simmers-down and says,
well, ok, and puts the lines out. Then he gets a look at the size of
the school of tuna and grins. We hit the school of tuna and locked the
wheel over circling through and catching tons of tuna. We made port at
Gold Beach, Oregon in the middle of the night with a hold full of
fresh-caught tuna. The lights of the harbor and the town twinkled and I
finished the last of the dago red wine, happy to be on some flat water
for a change.